Chronicle No. 61 · Places

The Finest Hotel East of Suez, and the Christmas It Changed Hands

The Peninsula opened in 1928 as Kowloon's grandest address. On Christmas Day 1941 a governor walked in and surrendered a colony.

When the Kadoorie family opened The Peninsula in Tsim Sha Tsui on 11 December 1928, the ambition was stated plainly: the finest hotel east of Suez. Italianate outside, Edwardian and Second Empire in the lobby, it faced the harbour and the ships that fed it.

Thirteen years later the ambition was beside the point.

On 25 December 1941 — Christmas Day — the British Governor of Hong Kong, Sir Mark Aitchison Young, walked into The Peninsula and surrendered the colony at the Japanese headquarters set up on the third floor. He was held in a suite in the hotel for two months before being moved to Shanghai. The Peninsula was renamed the Tōa Hotel and reserved for Japanese officers and dignitaries.

The name came back when the British did.

What the hotel did afterwards is the part hospitality people should study. It kept being itself, at scale:

A century of adding towers around a lobby it refuses to change. That is not nostalgia. That is knowing precisely which part of the business is load-bearing.

“the finest hotel east of Suez”

Lesson: Grand houses survive occupation and recession; what they cannot survive is losing the one thing guests come back for.

The Peninsula in Tsim Sha Tsui, the 1994 tower rising behind the 1928 house.
The Peninsula in Tsim Sha Tsui, the 1994 tower rising behind the 1928 house. — Wikimedia Commons · Ank Kumar · CC BY-SA 4.0
The front façade, unchanged in outline since opening day in December 1928.
The front façade, unchanged in outline since opening day in December 1928. — Wikimedia Commons · 93MAING (Maisee Hungom) · CC0
The lobby, the part of the building successive owners have refused to alter.
The lobby, the part of the building successive owners have refused to alter. — Wikimedia Commons · 93MAING (Maisee Hungom) · CC0